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Model slipways kit5/29/2023 ![]() Vac-formings do not require priming before painting if you use plastic enamel paints. Before gluing vac-formed parts together, have a "dry run" using thin strips of masking tape to hold them together, this will allow you to make any necessary adjustments. Final trimming of edges is done by rubbing the component with a circular motion on, or with, a piece of medium-grade abrasive paper taped to a flat surface. Remove as much waste material with a knife or scissors as possible. Using a sharp modelling knife, score the plastic heavily around the trim line, and carefully snap away the waste material. THERMO-FORMED PARTS (VACUUM FORMINGS) Mark the trim line in pencil. When gluing the deck to plastic deck supports, always rough the surface of the plastic to give it a key. If done well the joint is almost invisible! Practice on scrap plastic in order to perfect your own technique. This glue will evaporate quickly if uncapped.ΔΆ If a joint looks stepped or untidy, it can be fettled, sanded and scraped clean (with a Stanley blade) after a few hours when the glue has thoroughly dried. A note of caution: avoid using excess adhesive - it works by dissolving the plastic and too much will create deformation. After a few minutes the tape is removed and the joint can be re-glued on the outside. Simply brush along the inside of the joint and the liquid glue will 'capillary' along a good fitting joint. This is applied either with a bottle cap brush supplied or a small paintbrush. The best type of glue is liquid polystyrene glue of which there are several brands available. This will ensure close tight joints and most of all, allow you to stand back and check for accuracy before applying the glue. Assembling & Gluing Plastic: Assemblies of die-cut or printed parts (superstructure etc.) can be made easy if the parts are held together and built up using 4-5mm strips of masking tape. It is advisable to use a hand drill or a slow power drill. Drilling Holes in Plastic: Styrene does not like heat and a power tool that runs fast generates heat. If you have to curve strips of plastic along their length, hold between finger and thumb at the centre, pull your hands apart bending down as you pull - this will curve the strip to a gentle radius. Alternatively, place the area over the edge of the bench and run it back and forth. Bending Plastic: Place the area to be bent in hot water and gently bend. It is helpful to mark the part numbers onto the pieces with a soft pencil. If a raised burr is left along the edge it can be removed by dragging a Stanley blade along that edge. Using a new blade in either a scalpel or Stanley knife follow against the cut edge of the part and remove the part from the sheet. CNC-machined Plastic: The pieces are not fully cut through. If a raised burr is left along the cut edge it can be removed by dragging a Stanley blade along that edge. Cut well outside the marked outline of a curved component, then file or sand back to the correct profile. Complex shapes can easily be 'chased' along all pre-scored lines. This will cause the plastic to fracture along the score line and then simply bend away from you and the part will snap out. Place your thumbnails either side of the score, and with your fingernails on the underside, raise this line up towards you. Printed Plastic: Using a steel rule, lightly score the material with several strokes. Before applying a primer or paint, it is always best to flat off a shiny surface grit Wet or Dry works very well, especially if you wet it first and work with a gentle, circular motion. Plastic does not splinter and smooth holes can be drilled. With many vessels in steel, wood with a grain does not look right. The advantage of plastic over wood is that it has a smooth finish that requires no filling (other than on joints) to give a non-grainy finish. STYRENE PLASTIC Styrene sheet or more commonly called plasticard is available in different thicknesses. tungsten cutting disk a selection of files a couple of small screwdrivers miniature spanners pliers and side cutters tweezers small artist's paint brushes with wood handles (for gluing) wet and dry sandpaper of various grades (100, 200 and 380) and a sanding block elastic bands masking tape tape measure a 30W soldering iron, solder and flux (if you wish to solder). 1 MODELLING TIPS (Model Slipway Kits) TOOLS To build one of our models, the following is the minimum required: a sharp modelling knife (Stanley knife), scalpel and spare blades a large cutting mat or hardboard sheet a jigsaw or bandsaw a steel rule or straight edge a pair of spring callipers small clamps or clothes pegs a small vice hand drill or small drill and bits (0.5mm to 10mm) mini-drill with a 25mm dia.
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